Lucknow also known as “The City of Nawabs” is the heart of the Chikankari industry today.
The word “Chikan” derives its meaning from the Persian word “Chakin” also pronounced as “Chikeen”.
This means, cloth wrought with needlework. The process creates delicate designer patterns on a fabric.
This is done 100% by hand.The designer patterns are mostly inspired by Mughal architecture and the cloth used can be cotton,muslin chiffon, georgette, organza and other materials.There are more than 15 type of stitches in Chikankari. The most common ones are Tepchi, Bakhiya, Hool, Zanzeera, Rahet, Phanda, Jali, Chanapatti, Keel Kangan, Sidhaul etc.
Some historians have recorded the presence of Chikanas early as the 3rd Century AD during the reign of Chandragupta Maurya.
Another common tale behind its history relates the Mughalsintroducing this Persian craft to India in the 17thCentury.The Mughal Emperor Jahangir’s consort, Noor Jahan,was a known talented embroiderer with a particular fondness for Chikankari work. Jahangir was also enamored by this craft and lavished it with his royal patronage. He established several workshops to hone and perfect this art form. In this era, the fabrics used were mostly Muslin or Mulmulas they were best suited for the warm, humid climate.
After the downfall of the Empire, Chikankariartisans spread all over India and founded various centers for re-establishment in the 18th and 19th Century. Lucknow was the main one with Awadhas a close second. The then Governor of Awadh, Burhan Ul Malk, was a Persian nobleman and Chikanwork beneficiary who had a major role in restoring this craft to its former glory, which in many ways stands till date.